The Kachchh :
The history of Kachchh is very old. Traces of the Indus valley civilization (3000 to 1500 B.C.) have been discovered at Dholavira – Kachchh. Kachchh is a district situated on the north-west of Gujarat, which is situated on the west end of India.
On the edge of western India, a pure white desert seems to shimmer under the blazing sun.
This is the Rann of Kutch, home to India's largest salt plain, in the Kutch district of the westernmost state of Gujarat.
The Kutch region is famous not only for its white desert but also for its arts and crafts and each village has its own signature.For example, Bhujodi village is famous for weaving, Ajrakhpur for block-printing, Hodka for patchwork and Nirona for lacquer work.
Kutch's artisans are pursuing their traditional techniques in a very contemporary sphere, and the current global movement towards ethical, sustainable fashion places them in a very exciting position.
Kutch is a district of Gujarat state in western India. It has a rich and diverse creative tradition and is known for its handicrafts such as Ajrakh block print, bandhini, embroidery, shawl weaving, metal bells, mashru weaving, Rogan art and leather crafts.
Bhujodi is one of the known villages in Kutch known for its handicrafts and a wide range of craft is practice in this village. Embroidery work can be seen in entire village and these embroidery works are done by the rabri women. Leather work is practiced in several villages across Kutch that includes Hodka, Bhujodi and Sumrasar. The crafts of bhujodi include shawl weaving, leather articles, embroidery works. Leather shoe making is one among the famous crafts of bhujodi.
One of the virtues of kachchh; is its handicraft technique. Kachchhi artists are economically, socially backward. but the art-craft of kachchh is seen also in countries around the world. vowing, (yam), Bandhani, Colouring, lather art, Mud art; Ajarkh Batik, various, Bharat gunthan, Kotarkam art on wood, Copper Bell, patch work, kotarkala on silver, etc. type of unprecedented crafts-arts are hidden in kachchh district. Various prominent arts of the region are:
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Mud Paintings.
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Rogan Art.
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Copper bell.
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Leather work.
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Bandhani textiles.
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Embroidery and glass work on textiles
Mud Painting
Traditionally, Lippan Kaam uses a dough prepared from animal dung and mud or clay bought from the Rann of Kutch and the lakes in the Kutch region. Dung and clay are mixed in equal proportions, and a dough is prepared. Mud or clay has a natural tendency to adhere to the walls houses. Earlier, husk of bajri or millet was used as an alternative to dung, to keep termites away.
While Lippan Kaam is traditionally white, today it is made in beautiful colour combinations. Shades of red, yellow, green and blue are used in the patterns and designs. Using waterproof, washable colours further enhances its appeal and application in modern homes.
While the craft is used mainly to embellish the walls of mud houses, you can also find Lippan Kaam in specific parts of the houses, such as on kotholos – large storage granaries, sanjiros – large storage areas for valuables and clothes, pitara – a chest, kothi – silos for grain storage, chula – heart paniyara – clay platforms, and also in alcoves, plinths, shelves and on window frames.
The use of mirrors in this art form produces an astonishing, glittering effect, where a simple lamp can light up a very large space. The motifs and designs used in Lippan Kaam are inspired by everyday life. There are peacocks, camels, elephants, mango trees, temples, women churning buttermilk, women carrying water, and depictions of other daily activities.
Rogan Art
Rogan painting, is an art of cloth printing practiced in the Kutch District of Gujarat, India. In this craft, paint made from boiled oil and vegetable dyes is laid down on fabric using either a metal block (printing) or a stylus (painting). The craft nearly died out in the late 20th century, with rogan painting being practiced by only two families in the same village.
In Nirona, the Khatris introduced more contemporary products to appeal to tourists, such as bags, cushion covers, table cloths, wall hangings, and pillow covers. The tree of life continued to be a major motif. In an attempt to keep up with increased demand, in 2010 the Khatris began to train women for the first time. Previously, it was feared that women would spread the secrets of the craft when they married out of the family. In 2015, twenty women were working with the family in Nirona.
Rogan paint is produced by boiling castor oil for about two days and then adding vegetable pigments and a binding agent; the resulting paint is thick and shiny. The cloth that is painted or printed on is usually a dark color, which makes the intense colors stand out.
In rogan printing, the pattern is applied using metal blocks which patterns carved into them. In rogan painting, elaborate designs are produced freehand, by trailing thread-like strands of paint off a stylus. Frequently, half of a design is painted, then the cloth is folded in half, transferring a mirror image to the half of the fabric. The designs include floral motifs, animals, and local folk art.
Copper Bells
Bells are hand cast in a variety of shapes and sizes displayed singularly or in a group to perform musical functions. The sound of each bell is set with an instrument called ekal. The tonal quality and the resonating sound are dependent on three factors inherent to the making. The shape and size of the bell, along with the wooden thong sourced from the local Khirad tree determines the sound it imparts.
The structure and curvature of the bottom which is delicately beaten into shape using a harmonic hammer resonates the sound deepening its after glow.
Ancestors of copper bell makers sold their products to the local communities. Maldharis Bharvads and Rabaris (pastoral communities) were their major clientele and shared a very close relationship with the bell artisans. The Bharvads and Rabaris would sit with the bell makers describing the sound that their cattle recognize. The bell makers set the sound and tone till his client felt convinced of the sound. The bells come at a very high price and carry a life-time warranty. If there is any change in sound or the shining fades, then the copper bell artisans refurbish it free of cost. Almost all the live-stock was adorned with their bells thus providing a very good market.
Leather Work
Leather craft is one of the non – textile Craft being practiced in Kutch since generations. The Marwada Meghwal community – who in heritage the craft skills – have migrated from Sindh and Rajasthan to Kutch. They used to work closely with cattle herders (Maldhari community) of Kachchh, who traditionally supplied them with hides. The tanning and other pre-processes were done at the village level only. This slowly disappeared due to cultural and social stigma associated with it and now leathers artisans are buying leather from outside. The community is blessed with the other embroidery skills, resulted into shared craft traditions to decorate the leather goods.
Today, caste-based discrimination has all but ended and the leather artisans have increased economic independence and social respectability. While many of the young generation are more interested in office and factory work, many entrepreneurial craftspeople are working hard to keep up with the demands of the market. The continuously growing interest in the handmade, and increasing numbers of visitors to Kutch makes for a positive future for the craft.
The unique characteristic of leather craft is it's minute handcrafted details with simple yet generation old techniques of slicing, hand stitching, punching and braiding. The choice of colors, embroidery and product patterns are wisely made and delivered to keep the traditional charm of the product and on the same hand adds to the modern values.
Bandhani Work
The art of Bandhani is a highly skilled process. The technique involves dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a thread at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns like Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari etcetera; depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The main colour used in Bandhana are yellow, red, blue, green and black.
The main colours used in Bandhana are natural. As Bandhani is a tie and dye process, dying is done by hand and hence best colours and combinations are possible in Bandhanis.
The Bandhani work has been exclusively carried out by the Khatri community of Kutchh and Saurashtra. A meter length of cloth can have thousands of tiny knots known as 'Bheendi' in the local language ('Gujarati'). These knots form a design once opened after dyeing in bright colours. Traditionally, the final products can be classified into 'khombhi', 'Ghar Chola', 'Chandrakhani', 'Shikari', 'Chowkidaar', 'Ambadaal' and other categories.
Bandhani work is also done in Rajasthan, where different colours and designs are used than the Kutch and Saurashtra regions of Gujarat. Establishments of varying sizes in the entire Kutch belt in Gujarat produce many varieties of Bandhani. This Bandhani style is called as the Kutchi Bandhani.
Bandhani tying is often a family trade, and the women of these families work at home to tie patterns. Pethapur, Mandavi, Bhuj, Anjar, Jetpur, Jamnagar, Rajkot, are some of the main towns in Gujarat, where Bandhani is created. The city of Bhuj in Gujarat is well known for its red Bandhani. Dyeing process of Bandhani is carried out extensively in this city, as the water of this area is known to give a particular brightness to colours, specifically reds and maroons.
As with other Indian textiles, in Bandhani too different colours convey different meanings. People believe that red is an auspicious colour for brides.
